August 2nd and 3rd, 2022 - The Red Fort, Laundry Ghats, Taj Mahal - Agra

 Knowing that I would be within driving distance of the Taj Mahal once I arrived back in Delhi, I had arranged to take an extension offered by Nathan Horton, in hope of capturing the essence of this iconic and beautiful structure. 

First Glimpse

In order to get a 'preview' of it, we visited the Red Fort, just 2 1/2 miles away, which offers some enticing views across the river Yamuna. The 'Taj' had a floaty, hazy look about it as it glimmered off in the distance.

Jahangir's Palace

The Red Fort is well named! It is massive and its walls are made from red sandstone with white marble trim. When I look up the history of the building, I learn it was built in the 1500's for a Mughal emperor, Akbar, although other structures had existed prior to that. (My research here is confusing - different reputable sites suggest other originators, but it seems Akbar is the one that commissioned it in its present form.)The internal palace in the photograph above was built for his son Jahangir and has white marble trim to provide contrasting ornamentation.  I don't know very much about Indian history, but I understand the Mughals arrived in India from Central Asia (Uzbekistan) in the 1500's. Their name is derived from 'Mongol' and the founder, a warrior king called Babur, was a descendent of Genghis Khan. Akbar was his grandson.

Imposing Columns of an Interior Courtyard

The Mughal Empire was a consequential power throughout south-east Asia between 1580's to 1740's, by which time it had a military of a million soldiers - the largest in the world at that time - and was valued at having 24% of the world's economy. No wonder the Brits became interested in their wealth!

Their architecture is really well represented here in Agra with the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal, which have a blend of Indian, Islamic and Persian elements of architecture, which includes symmetry, bulbous domes, slender minarets at the coners, massive halls, large vaulted gateways and delicate ornamentation.

Screening Tiles

This tile-like screen shows some of the lovely design details that were there.

A Serene Portico

There was another screen with holes too small for my camera lens to photograph this porch, so my cell phone did the trick! What a beautiful cool space this must have offered for afternoon tea!

Mosaics

The age of the building shows up, sadly, with some features showing signs of disrepair, as with these and other mosaic features we saw.

Fortifications?

It is called a fort, but in addition to being a military base, was also a small city with many palaces, entertainment halls, gardens and a mosque. This photo definitely suggests soldiers and watchtowers.

Interior Walls of A Mosque

The structures were numerous and our visit was brief, so I didn't manage to understand exactly what I was photographing, but its beauty was unmistakable. The inlays of this white marble in one of the mosques was a prelude to similar features we would see later at the Taj Mahal.

Lots of Other Photographers

As it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was a very busy place, even in the late afternoon when we arrived. There were many megapixels being carried out of its gates and I especially appreciated that this woman's sari coordinated so well with the  building........

A Colorful Head Wrap

........and the vibrancy of this man's head wrap against the red walls.

Happy to Pose for Nathan

When travelling with Nathan Horton, one is travelling with a people magnet. Wherever we turned, even if people were taking selfies, Nathan's skills for engaging often resulted in photo ops. On this afternoon there were many husbands and wives posing together for photos.

A Stylish Couple

Some were trying to get photos with the Taj Mahal as a backdrop, so that part of the complex was quite busy. 

Posing for the Camera

This woman was not so well coordinated with her green dress, but still beautiful. 

Mother and Daughter?

She was with an older woman and as we connected, I noticed their hands.

Recently Married

They told us that the henna tattoos on the younger woman denoted that she was recently married.

Henna Tattoos

The older woman also had tattooed hands and was happy to show them to me for a photograph.

Families Were Out Enjoying the Place

Everywhere we turned, the red backdrop provided a stunning contrast to people's clothing.

White Was Dramatic, too.

In an interesting twist, we also became the subject of people's photographs. Quite a few times, we were asked to be included in photos.

Family Photo

This family was very keen to have their photo taken with us. They were from a part of India that Nathan knew well, so we had a very animated conversation and we are now in their cameras, too.

Dhobi Ghat on the river Yamuna

Before heading over to the gardens opposite the Taj, Nathan wanted to look in on a laundry ghat on the river.

Boiling Vats

Now, I had no idea what a ghat was, until I saw these huge piles of saris being washed by the side of he river. Seeing these beautiful garments lying in the dirt was bizarre, but is seems the way they have done it traditionally, so I guess it works. 

Dhobis

The men who do the laundry are called dhobis. They waved at us and seemed happy to take a break to pose.

Colorful Chaos

Unfortunately, their boss didn't like to see free megapixels leaving his laundry, so he approached Nathan, aggressively demanding payment.

How Do They Get Back to Their Owners?

While Nathan is generally happy to show appreciation for people when they pose by offering a monetary gift, this high handed demand, was not in his style, so we decided to leave instead of being forced to pay. However, I managed to snag a few more photos of the glorious cacophony of colors. Seeing women wearing their beautiful garments, it is hard to imagine that this is how they get cleaned! Although brief, it was a wonderful experience.

The View From The Garden - Mehtab Bagh

Before the day ended, we wanted to have a closer view of the mausoleum and went to a park on the opposite side of the river, so get a view in the evening light. It was a great vantage point to see not only the central white part of the building, which is so well known, but to also see the smaller buildings on either side. The one to the right is a mosque and mirroring it on the left is a guest house.

The Guest House at the Taj Mahal

Here is a closer look at the guest house. The mosque was very similar.

My Favorite Image From the Garden

Our plan was to be the first into the complex the following day. Nathan had arranged for us to meet 'the best guide', Dom, the following day at 4:45 a.m. to be first through the stiles when it opened at 5:13 a.m. (30 minutes before sunrise).

We were to be pared down to essentials, as everything had to be scanned, so no backpack or bags. After that we were to run around the corner to the first spot where we could see the white domes and start clicking.

Taj Mahal in the First Glimmers of Light

Wow! It was quite an experience! I was fortunate that the women had a separate security line for being searched, so I got through quickly and then was off to the races. My camera was on the recommended settings and I was there before others. It was here that I came to understand the meaning of 'blue light'. The colors you see here are due to the magic of post camera processing - Lightroom and Topaz. The untouched photo is a rich, deep blue! However, I got the first glimpse!

Framed By a Concrete Seat

The next target was to find the seat that had a nice arch UNDER it to frame the building nicely. So to get this photo, I was on my belly under a seat doing my best. The light was still very low, so it is grainy, but it does provide a beautiful archway for the building. A nearby guard was amused at my antics as I tried to extricate myself from the seat!

The Magic of Water

Dom really did know his way around. We headed to he mosque next, where he magically pulled out a bottle of water from a hiding spot in the wall and threw it on the floor. He showed me how to use my cell phone to get a nice reflection. My cell phone produced a clearer photo than my camera! (Sad face)

The Light Starts to Appear

Gradually, the light began to arrive and my camera was able to find enough for acceptable photos.

Me With Our Guide, Dom

Dom was a force to be reckoned with. He showed us every imaginable angle and view with an energy and enthusiasm that belied his 45 years of experience as a guide here. He was a memorable character who truly loved his job and his building.

Two Taj Mahals in the Mosque

He wanted to be sure that we could see the inlay in the ceiling of the mosque that shows two Taj Mahals, balanced as if on a scale.

Detail of the Two Taj Mahals

We went into the mausoleum itself to see the tomb of Muntaz Mahal, the favorite wife of Shah Jahan who commissioned it in 1632. Dom wanted us to know that the entire symmetry of the complex was organized around her tomb, while the shah himself was set to her side.

Semi-Precious Stones Inlaid Into the Marble

I was especially impressed by the detail of the semi-precious stones inlaid into the marble. Because the overall impression is so 'white', it is easily overlooked. 

Detail of Gems Inlaid

Up close, you can see the vibrant colors. Another guide showed us the transparency of the gems by shining a flashlight into them. It was very lovely.

Geometric Inlays

I also loved the symmetry of the geometric inlays.

A Final Glimpse

But, all good things must come to an end, so we headed off back to the hotel. Nathan was moving on with another photographer and I was headed back to Delhi, then to Italy.

Because the Taj is highly secured, we faced a walk of 500 meters, as polluting cars are not allowed any closer.

Students off to School

I enjoyed seeing the kids off to school on their bikes......

Beautiful Saris

....a final glimpse of beautiful saris.......

Child With Kohl Around His Eyes

.....and a father who was proudly willing to share his young son for a photo. His eyes were lined with kohl, which is believed to be beneficial for them.

This had been a vivid and rich glimpse of a large and visually rich land. I hope you have enjoyed it. Thanks for travelling with me.

August 1st, 2022 - Our Last Ladakhi Hurrah - Masked Festival and Traditional Costumes in Korzok, Tso Moriri

 

Animals Being Blessed

When we returned to the monastery, we found that there were a number of animals in the courtyard. In addition to these two horses, there was a yak and several dogs.

The Yak Was Not Happy

The ceremony involved some type of red 'paint' being applied to the animals and some type of flags/ribbons being stitched into their fur (I hope it was fur and not skin!) The yak did not appreciate the treatment and periodically bucked against its handlers. I kept looking at the ropes hobbling it, and hoped that they were sufficient!

The animals were not kept long - they were released, free to go on their own. We were told that now, having been blessed,  they will not be killed by humans. I'm not sure if any were in danger of that anyway, but it was nice to know they are now protected.

The Pooper Scoopers Arrive

Following the departure of the animals, the courtyard was cleaned up. It is probable, that the dung collected by these two, would be put to good use in some way!

The Musicians Arrive

People were getting back in their places - many the same as yesterday, the musicians arrived and the Festival proper was getting ready to start.

Driving Out the Devil in the Office Chair?

When we asked the meaning of the Festival, our guides told us that the dances and music were about driving out the devil. The only representation of the devil that we could see was this office chair, draped with a blanket with a devilish face on it. It puzzled me to hear this explanation, as I conceive of Buddhism as a non-theistic religion - thus with no 'God' as such, there could be no 'Satan'. Good old Google confirms that indeed, in Tibetan Buddhism, shamanic beliefs about the devil were adopted and this ceremony, called a 'cham is the result. According to Encyclopedia Brittanica, it reassures the audience that evil forces have been overcome by the religion, so a good year can be expected. Here's a reference if you're interested: https://www.britannica.com/art/Central-Asian-arts/Buddhist-ritual

The Monks Arrive 

The costumed monks arrived and circled in their dance. You can also see the depiction of the devil on their costumes. The skull on their headdresses evoked the Mexican 'Day of the Dead' in my mind. They were colorful and spectacular.

At Least the Skull Has a Smile!

The hats were quite tall and looked awkward. The dancing seemed a little less active than yesterday - I expect 'high steps' would be hazardous with this on one's head.

An Earlier Generation? No Smile

There were two types of headdress - these ones were not as vibrant and the skull had no smile.

Ladies Wearing a Perak

Another type of headdress was also intriguing me. Since our first arrival in this area, I had been intrigued by a group of women who were highly ornamented.  The curved piece over their head is made of leather and was covered in chunks of turquoise. The sides had furry flaps that reminded me of the days of the 'flying nun' and her wimple. Every time we saw them, some of them carried these vases of silk flowers. Their dress is basically similar to the men's, the gomcha, but has pleats and more of a flare at the bottom.

An Impenetrable Fortress

We had seen these women first at the pass, before we arrived in Tso Moriri. With the way they sat in a circle facing each other, the perak, along with the side flaps made it very difficult to glimpse the faces of these women - a very effective shielding strategy! Here, you can see their lovely shawls.

Fine Silk Gomchas

These women were generally accompanied by a group of men, who were also dressed in their finest. The garment they wear is called a gomcha, tied at the waist with a sash and another over the shoulder. They also wear the hat - tipi. The burners that they carry, are incense burners, fueled by yak dung. The man on the right, was very attentive to his burner and seemed concerned about it, even when they were traveling in the back of their pick-up trucks.

Keeping the Incense Burner Lit

I'm not sure how successful he was - I did not see any smoke!

Seating Confusion

Google says that the costume was worn by the old aristocracy of Ladakh. This group was treated as if they had some privilege. They were seated on the balcony in these chairs on the first day, but when they arrived on Monday, they were moved down to the first level, next to the musicians.

They Still Enjoyed Themselves.

It appears that they are members of the Rupshow Young Drukpa Association, and they actually have a Facebook page. There are many photos from the Fesival, which lasted several more days. They show you the monks costuming that appeared on subsequent days. There was a building for this group right next to the monastery. As we were leaving, to go back to Leh, we saw a few of the women headed up the stairs to the Association facility.

Beautiful Costumes on Beautiful Women

Our guide, Ash, seized the opportunity, went in after them and asked if we could photograph them. When they assented, all eight of us poured into the room. They were a bit taken aback at our number, but stayed with the agreement and posed - even removing masks for us.

Truly Beautiful

I'm grateful to Ash and these women. Although I only got a few photos, I think they are lovely.

A Wonderful Image to End With

And so ended our group's time in Ladakh. 

Here is the Entire Crew - Photographers, Guides and Drivers

Our ride back to Leh was bumpy and long. We had a nice farewell dinner and the next morning early, we all flew back to Delhi, where we all went our separate ways. It had been an excellent group to travel with. I learned a few things from them, as well as Nathan and Ash. I learned how to wear my cameras so they don't bounce around, ways to think about camera settings and improved post camera processing. We'll hope these lessons continue to benefit me. 

Thank you for joining me on this journey. I will have one more blog from India, where I describe my trip to the Red Fort and Taj Mahal in Agra with Nathan Horton Photography.