Friday, August 16th and Saturday, August 17th, 2024 - Last Days of My Photography Trip - Another Rice Paddy, Fish Market and Sanur Sunrise

 

Rice Paddy, Tabanan

Our hotel in Tabanan, bordered on a canal, delivering water to local rice fields. As you see, the fields are less steep than the valley we had visited yesterday and was verdant and intensely green in the morning sun. It was closer to maturity - you could see the rice grains already forming. However, they will need to turn yellow before its time to harvest.

Canal With Walking/Biking Path

Unlike yesterday's paddies, this field had robust canals carrying water, with an easy, surfaced walking path to follow. There was very little gradient, so my knees were happy.

Flags as Scarecrows

There were numerous flags of different colors scattered about to scare off the birds. You might notice that these fields are not flooded. Rice can grow on dry land, but tolerates flooding, which is used to control pests and weeds. 

Altars in the Fields

Rice farming and religion are deeply intertwined here in Bali. Much of the management of the water, through the subak system, is conducted by the temples, as co-operation needs to occur over many regional boundaries. Dewi Sri is the Hindu goddess of rice, fertility and prosperity here and the fields honor her with shrines and altars like the ones you see here.

An Altar in the Rice Field

According to Google's AI, every step of rice cultivation is accompanied by religious rituals, which they say reinforces bonds between families, villages and regions. This altar bears the signs of a ritual with the hanging offerings.

A Lock Makes a Great Place to Stretch

We were not the only ones enjoying a morning stroll. We saw women doing laundry and bathing in the canal, cyclists, children going to school, and this man, who was following a robust stretching routine using one of the locks that controls the water flow. Most likely he came from the neighborhood that bordered these lovely fields.

Sanur Beach - 'A Peaceful Sanctuary'?

Following our morning saunter through the rice fields, we packed up and headed directly for Sanur, a popular beach area near Denpasur, the capital of Bali. It is a busy place - lots of hotels, vendors, a bike and walking path. It is also worth noting that is was the beach where Barack Obama retreated for several months in 1993, to write his first book - Dreams From My Father. I suspect it might not have been such a hectic place back then, as it is said that he 'sought a peaceful sanctuary with no phones'! 

Jimbaran Bay Fish Market

After a few hours of 'down time' (rare on this trip), we headed off to Jimbaran Bay to visit the fish market and catch the sunset. 

Collecting Fresh Seawater for the Fish

There were people going down to the water and bringing us very heavy looking buckets of  sea water to keep their market fish fresh. This man gave us a nice 'thumbs up'. 

Peanut Seller

Fish markets can be a bit unsettling - they can smell and are often crowded and wet. It was the end of the day, the end of the trip, so I was grateful to dally outside the wet area and enjoy the vendors in the surrounding area. I rather liked this way of carrying peanuts, but feared that light-fingers might help themselves when the vendor's attention was elsewhere!

Roasted/Steamed? Corn

The color of this fresh corn, was striking in the low evening light.

Enjoying Life

It looks as if the work day was done for this man and he was just enjoying life. My 'permissi photo' energy was very low, so I was grateful that another photographer from our group approached him for permission.

Knife Seller

I must have mustered up the courage to approach this woman myself. I loved her rosy face hovering behind her impressive collection of knives.

A Busy Place

Once I was within the wet area of the market, I was somewhat overwhelmed. There were lots of slippery, slimy looking things - some I recognized, some I didn't.

A Barrel of Fish

 I did like the glimmer of the late afternoon light on these fish.....

Painted Lobsters

.....and I have never seen such colorful lobsters! Wikipedia says it's panulirus versicolor, and is a variety of spiny lobster that lives in the tropical reefs of the Indo-Pacific.

Proud of Her Fish

The vendors we saw outside the wet market did not wear clothing which suggested a relisious affiliation. This changed when we entered the market, where many of the women were wearing hijab. I did not have to muster up my 'permissi photo' energy for this picture, either. The woman approached me with her fish held high. Maybe it was her way to Instagram both beauties!

Golden Rays of the Sun

Back on the beach, the golden rays of the sun caught the spider boats

Airplane, Setting Sun and Spider Boats

Jimbaran was near the airport, so we were able to watch the airplanes land. The sky was cloudy, but about a third of the sun poked its head out near the horizon as it set. This was our last sunset. Tomorrow morning we hoped to catch a sunrise before most of the other people went on our tour went about their own travel plans.

Sunrise Sanur Beach

Although the sunrise Saturday morning was lovely, that volcano that we were supposed to see - Mount Agung again - continued to be elusive! Never mind, we had enjoyed so many wonderful experiences and sights, the missing volcano didn't dampen my spirits.

Greeting the Day

Seeing this man on the beach performing a holy ritual in the glow of the morning sun felt like a sweet way to end this trip. He was ringing his bell, chanting and meditating. The 'For Rent' sign is a peculiar invader here - no doubt it refers to kayaks or beach chairs. Is it symbolic of Bali's approach to tourism? I was glad he was going about his business regardless, in a very focused and disciplined manner. I don't believe he was the object available for rent!

It has been am amazing two weeks - Nathan's expertise and knowledge of this part of the world was invaluable, the company on the trip superb and the friendliness of the people along with the beauty of the land was superb. I hope you have enjoyed travelling with me as much as I have enjoyed sharing it with you.

Thursday 15th August, 2024 - On to Tabanan - Rice Paddies, Manufacturing and A Sunset Temple

 

Teggallalang Rice Terrace 

This is sort of a boring photo to start with, but I choose it because it reveals the beginnings of a tale about rice terrace tourism in Bali. We arrived here relatively early from Ubud, on our way to Tabanan - our next stop. I was surprised to see the umbrellas and cafes on the roadside, when we were coming to a rice paddy. I think of farming taking place in the countryside and this felt very urban.

Subak Style Rice Paddies

The steep valley provides a perfect example of a style of rice farming that began in Bali, in the 9th century. This system, which is called subak, not only speaks to the physical design of the terraces, but describes a cooperative management of canals and weirs.

A Steep Descent

Our venture began with a steep descent to the bottom of the valley - my knees were unhappy, my walking poles were invaluable. You can see here the verdant new growth toward the bottom of this eastern, more commercial side of the valley.

This ancient subak system is cited by UNESCO World Heritage as being a system of 'democratic and egalitarian farming practices (that) has enabled the Balinese to become the most prolific rice growers in the archipelago (Indonesia)'. 

Looking Back at the Eastern Side of the Valley

As we reached the bottom, it was easy to see that we had just trekked down through an area that appeared to have shifted it's income from the traditional subak system of rice growing, to tourism. The heart-shaped set-ups and swings are all for the benefit of the world's 'instagrammers'!

The Western Side of the Valley

I couldn't find data about the number of visitors who come here, but as it is only 20 minutes from Ubud and little more than an hour from Denpasur airport, it is touted as the most popular place to see this type of terrace. Although UNESCO has recognized the cultural practice of sunak, Tegallalang does not appear on the UNESCO World Heritage list, so it does not get the protections from large-scale tourism such a designation would confer.

An Older Farmer Was Out Gathering Vegetation

So what happens, in an egalitarian system, when one side of a valley is making lots of money from tourists, while you're the one slogging away creating and maintaining the beautiful landscape that they are all coming to see? Although this farmer had indicated that photos were OK, perhaps the look on his face reveals an angst over being the subject of such attention.

You Want Me to do What!?

On the other hand, it might be a case of 'If you can't beat them, you might as well join them!' Nathan (our photography tour leader) had already arranged for another younger rice farmer to walk the paddies for us to photograph. Nathan also also asked this older man to join us - and of course offered to pay him. However, Nathan wanted him to 'go traditional' by taking his shirt and jacket off. In this photo, the exchange between our guide, communicating this, was received with a little animation - due to poor hearing or 'you want me to do what'!?

So Now We Have Two Farmers

He agreed and so we had the benefit of two farmers carrying their baskets for that 'perfect shot'.

But Who Does it Belong To?

Here is where the interesting story really starts to reveal itself. Our guide told us, that as resentments built up from those on the western (rice paddy) side, they approached the cafe and resort owners to ask for a share of the tourism money. It would not surprise you to know that their request was refused - so what did they do? Apparently they put up high walls so that people on the other side could not see the terraces! That must have got their attention!

Confrontation With a Knife!

I don't know if the community ever succeeded in getting money from the cafe owners in accord with their spirit of egalitarianism, but they did set up a small fee visitors are required to pay to enter. Opportunities to seek other sources of income, like our 'models', is hopefully to their benefit also. However, any spirit of co-operation was absent when this woman approached Nathan, and angrily declared that this she owned this paddy and that he needed to pay her for us to continue to photograph there. Neither of our farmers could (or would) confirm or deny her claim, so there was a fairly tense stand-off as she held her knife determinedly at her side!  Finally, Nathan succeeded in bargaining a settlement to her satisfaction and once payment was made, she left us to our devices.

What an Office!

As we returned back toward our vehicles, we saw many more workers in the paddies. We were amused at this woman's 'I Love Bali' shirt.

Instagrammers

Perhaps she'd scored it from 'instagrammers' like these, who were posing for their photos on the very same paddy where she was working! How peculiar! Perhaps my camera pointing at her also felt peculiar!

Using her Spine!

I was impressed with this woman who was carrying a container of new seedlings on her head, to be transferred from the 'nursery' beds to the big paddy.

Peace to You, Too

She stopped and gave me a lovely smile as we passed on the trail. I envied her sturdy and wide-brimmed hat.

Ankle Deep in Mud

Even ankle deep in mud, she was was able to eke out a half smile!

Sari Timbal Glass Factory

Following our immersion in green, we stopped by a glass factory, hoping to see glass blowing. Unfortunately they were not firing the kilns that day, so we had to satisfy ourselves with a few shots of their glimmering and rather chaotically arranged products.

The Final Product

It seems that they specialized in blowing the glass onto natural pieces of wood which provides an anchor for home decor - vases, bowls etc.

Matching the Glass to it's Wooden Companion

On this day, with the kilns at rest, the workers were busy matching the blown glass to the piece of wood it had been formed over. It appeared to be a random process, much like solving a jigsaw puzzle. I wondered if they would appreciate some type of numbering system that might make matching them less arduous!

President Sukarno and Garuda

Next to the glass factory was a small but rather magnificent sculpture garden - the Sari Timbal Art Gallery. It was a marvelous, outside venue with a smoky fish pond, orchids, little winding paths up into a tree house and some of the most incredible wooden carving I have ever seen. 

This magnificent carving of the first Indonesian President, Sukarno, acknowledges his role in freeing the country from Dutch colonialism in the 1940's. The sign also references his creating the basis of the state with five concepts known as Pancasilo - monotheism, civilized humanity, national unity, deliberative democracy and social justice. As with so many governing systems, the founding ideologies might not always become achieved in perfect form. 

A Magnificent Medusa

This medusa head was another example of the superb wood-carving that is created here.

Smoky Fish Pond

I can't let us leave this sweet spot, without showing you the loveliness of the smoky fish pond.

Lamp Shop

Our next stop was spontaneous - lamp shops on the side of the road - location unknown.

This is How Balinese Lamps are Made

I know I have walked into places like Pier One, Ikea, maybe even places like Home Goods and loved the look of these woven lamps. Google says they might be made of rattan, bamboo, jute and wood. I found it quite stunning to recognize, that this setting reveals the origins of these lovely things that we might choose to grace our homes.

Little Yellow Stools!

I imagine the workers must develop really healthy core muscles as they work perched on these little yellow stools! Was it a sweat shop? - I don't know. It was winter in Bali, so the temperatures were comfortably warm. 

Time Out for a Thumbs Up and Smile

The workers seemed happy. I just hoped they do get paid a living wage.

Beautiful Curves

I thought their creations were lovely!

Seaside Decor

Next door to the lamp factory was another shop that appeared to be a source of the type of painted wood carvings that we find in our local stores

Would This Sell Well in Fernandina Beach?

I thought this was a cute sign, but I also really like the carved mushrooms on the piece of wood it is hanging from.

Purah Tanah Lot

After checking in to our hotel in Tabanan (more on that in the next blog), we drove about 30 minutes to Bali's south coast to photograph this Hindu temple that was built on a rock jutting out into the ocean. Although people like us (and the other 500,000 visitors who come here each year) can walk out to the temple at low tide, only Balinese Hindus may climb the steps into the temple.

Batu Bolong Temple North of Tanah Lot

The low rays of the sun were starting to create that special light. Looking to the north, you can see the way the ocean erodes the limestone rock, creating arches like this and blowholes. This name of this smaller temple means 'hollow rock'. It apparently has a fresh spring within it. For good reason, it is regarded as holy water.

Looking For Best Sunset Spot

Sunset is the most desired time of day for many visitors to Tanah Lot. You can see here how it resembles a ship heading out to the ocean. No surprise to learn that it's name means 'land in the sea'.

Like Batu Bolong, the over 500 year-old temple is built on limestone, which has been subject to crumbling over time. In the 1980's, the structure became dangerous and it is thanks to restoration funding from the Japanese Government that it has been hardened and is now safe. Due to this, over one-third of the structure is now 'cleverly disguised' artificial rock! 

Ideal Spot?

We thought we had found a perspective that we liked, to get the sunset, but bemoaned 'all those people' getting in our way! How inconsiderate of them! Couldn't they see we were in a different 'class' of photographers with our tripods and fancy cameras?!

If You Can't Beat Them, Join Them!

It took us too long to figure out that maybe those bothersome people knew of a better spot - so we rapidly moved our tripods, got set up again.... and there you have it.

I always have an ambition to fit several days into these posts, but I come to the end of each day with the feeling that this is quite enough!

Next post will definitely be the last for my photography tour, so stay tuned.